Kits designs for direct-to-stud scenarios described here are most often used for new construction or major remodeling jobs, where studs are already exposed. Adhesive types, on the other hand, are designed for retrofit application to existing wall surfaces, using construction adhesives. In a typical remodeling project using a direct-to-studs surround kit, you first install a bathtub or shower base , then finish the wall with the surround kit, attaching the panels directly to the studs, with no need for drywall or cement board as a backer.
If you don't already have exposed studs, the panels can be used as a template to outline an area of the wall where you will remove the drywall. These tub and shower surrounds have top, bottom, and side flanges that are screwed or nailed to the wall studs.
Some surround kits are designed for a specific shower base or tub, while others can be retrofit to any existing tub of appropriate size. Tub and shower surround kits can come as a single complete unit, but these are usually used for new construction. Most tub and shower surrounds designed for remodeling applications come in several pieces to make installation in tight spaces easier.
The surround kits designed for attachment to studs are usually made of fiberglass or acrylic material that is quite sturdy, sometimes featuring built-in molded shelving. Make sure to read the instructions before installing any tub or shower surround. When buying a direct-to-stud surround, make sure that you get the right size for the width of the tub or shower you have. This type of surround can't be trimmed to fit in the same way that is possible with adhesive-type surrounds.
Unless the studs are already exposed, installation starts by stripping the walls down to the studs around where the surround will sit. This is demolition work that may require a pry bar and reciprocating saw, depending on what type of wall surface is present.
Often, it is best to cut out an area of the wall slightly larger than the surround, because this makes it easier to anchor the flanges to the studs. After installation, you can then install drywall so it butts up to the surround over the nailing flanges. When removing drywall, make sure to remove all nails or screws, and check to make sure the studs lie in a flat plane.
If necessary, you may need to shim out the studs if they are uneven or bowed. This ensures that the surround panels will lie flat against the walls. Make sure the installation is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. If an adhesive or silicone sealant is also required on the wall, then be sure to follow this procedure. Install the back wall panel first. Some kits have one back panel; others have two.
Position the back surround panel on the tub and level it. Have someone help hold it in place while you check to see how it fits against the walls and the edge of the tub or shower base.
Once the panel is oriented properly, drill pilot holes through the top, bottom, and side flanges where the panel meets the center of the studs, and use nails or screws to secure it to the wall. Short roofing nails with large heads work well for this.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the nailing interval. Install the side wall without plumbing fixtures on it. This side is done first because no holes are required and it is easy to install. Position the panel against the side wall, and lock it in place where it adjoins the back panel. Level the panel and make sure it sits flush against the lip of the tub or shower pan. Drill pilot holes in the panel flanges where they meet the studs, and screw or nail the panel to the wall.
Some kits have two side wall panels. If so, install the remaining panel before turning to the front wall panel. The final panel is the one containing the plumbing fixtures; this is usually the front wall of the shower. Before installing this last panel, it will have to be drilled for the tub or shower valve and maybe a tub spout. Take measurements off of the back wall to the center of the valve, and off of the tub or shower base to the center of the valve.
Transfer these measurements to the tub surround panel. A smooth, low-luster surface does a better job of concealing water spots and soap scum. Another important consideration is the number of pieces in the kit.
Three and five pieces are standard. Three-piece units cost a little less, but they work well only when tub walls are framed square and plumb. Five-piece units are usually a better choice because they are more forgiving of crooked walls and out-of-square corners. We opted for a five-piece, pressed-fiberglass kit at the high end of the price range. Louis, MO The first step is to remove the faucet trim and spout.
Begin by prying the index cap from the faucet handle, and then removing the handle screw Fig. Next, remove the screws from the trim plate and pry the plate from the tile Fig. To remove the tub spout, feel for a recess along its underside. If you feel an open area, expect a slip-fit spout, secured to copper pipe with an Allen screw.
Loosen this screw and pull the spout straight off. To keep from damaging the chrome finish, insert plier handles into the spout opening and unscrew it from its pipe nipple Fig. Just grip the wrench surfaces of the head with an open-end wrench and back out the head, arm and flange. Tub surrounds can sometimes be installed over existing tile, but only when conditions are right.
All things considered, removing the tiles is often a better option. While you may find lower tiles ready to fall away from soggy wallboard, the upper tiles will be stuck tight. You may even have to break each tile and pry off the pieces. When breaking tiles, be sure to wear a face mask and protective clothing. In some cases, it makes sense to cut the drywall and pull it all down in a few pieces, then put up new drywall or backing board to support the new surround. First, tape cardboard over the tub to protect it.
When the compound dries, sand it lightly, paint it with a stain-killing primer and allow it to dry completely. Use a hacksaw to cut them to length, then peel the paper backing from the foam tape on each piece and stick the pieces to the wall Fig. Finally, use a 4-ft. With the front edges established, prepare to set the corner panels. If your tub and walls are far from square, you may need to file a little off the bottom of one or two panels. After checking for fit, apply a heavy bead of the provided adhesive around the perimeter of the corner panel, about 1 in.
Apply additional beads behind the soap dishes and across the center of the panel Fig. Then, peel the backing paper from the foam tape Fig. Press the panel firmly into the corner so that it sticks on one side Fig.
When all looks well, press down the remaining side until the tape takes hold. Finish by running a hand over the entire panel, top to bottom, to make sure the adhesive makes full contact with the wall. Install the second corner in similar fashion. Measure the distance between the corners and mark the centerline on the tub.
Then, lay the middle panel on sawhorses and mark its center on the bottom. Turn the panel over and apply adhesive to the perimeter, behind the soap dishes and in a large, looping pattern across the middle. Pull the backing paper from the perimeter tape, set the panel on the tub and carefully align the two center marks Fig.
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